Improving Hanoi, One Hong at a Time

Truth be told, Hanoi rubbed me the wrong way. It was probably a combination of things... the time of day I arrived there (before dawn with the streets shadowy and unwelcoming), the insane streets that you had to walk on because the sidewalks were blocked by parked scooters, and just the inevitable irritation caused by another loud, dirty place that was strange to me.

On my way through Hanoi for the last time, before flying out to Bangkok, I stayed at an unassuming little guesthouse in the Old Quarter. There was a restaurant downstairs, so I came down for dinner. The proprietor, Hong, showed me to my table with a deep bow, as if it was truly an honor that I was visiting his establishment. I felt welcome.

Hong spoke some English, so we got to talking. He had only just opened this place with his own money, and what did I think? It was a great place, I said (it really was-- great food too). He was married, and had recently had his first child-- a statement punctuated by a sharp gleam in his proud eyes. He was also, on top of opening a restaurant, studying to be a tour guide. There were apparently classes that he needed to take to become licensed in Vietnam, and he wanted to be able to do that in the future.

He brought over his menu to get my thoughts on what he was offering, and then wanted my opinion a flyer he was creating for the restaurant. I gave him some advice on some changes he might want to make. I used to do things like that at my old job, and the fact that I was doing it pro bono at a restaurant in Vietnam was funny to me. Apparently, the marketing projects find me whereever I go.

I later met Hong's beautiful wife, and I saw him hold his 9-month old boy. I thought about this guy-- my age, going to school, starting a family, starting a business, working his butt off until 10 o' clock at night to make an honest but good living for his wife and pride-n-joy. And he did all of it with a smile and a deferential bow.

When I left the next day, I think my bow to Hong was just a little deeper than his bow to me.