You're not supposed to smile underwater

I stopped breathing, for just a second, and floated. I just looked down at it all - fish like I'd never seen everywhere, from a sand-colored sting ray to a trumpetfish the length and width of a broomstick to a cod the size of a manhole cover affectionately dubbed the Sweet-lipped Cod. The fish were content to let me hang around and watch, give me the occasional 'can i help you?' look. All gliding by in different shapes, colors, patterns... effortless, kaleidoscopic and serene.

But it was actually the coral that got me. The variety of boulder-sized mounds, towers and honeycomb structures that I swore could not be natural -- they seemed just a little too much like art. Each piece looked different and sculpted-- leopard patterned bulge there, intricate fan-shape there-- and they stretched on further than I could see. I stopped above something that looked like a bush, little white tendrils flowing with the currents. Until, it seemed, the current changed, and the bush changed to red. And then back to white, swaying in the underwater wind.

I guess I started breathing at some point there. And I know that I smiled at some point too, because I had water in my mask. You're not supposed to smile underwater.

Brush Turkey beware

It's the Australian brush turkey, I was told. A turkey. But it sounded like a rooster, and exhibited the characteristics of the same. Namely, its dawn call.

But it was different, see, because there were several of them. Roosters do their own thing, but these things travel in packs, like ADD middle-schoolers at a mall. And they only hang out at night, right outside my cabin, when I can't see them -- but I can hear them.

And the noise, it was BEFORE dawn. It would be like if you took a bunch of roosters, and then you gave them coffee and cotton candy and crystal meth, and then you just picked them up and you shook them for 30 seconds, and plucked a few of their feathers, and then placed them back down. Inside my skull.

Brush Turkey beware -- I know you now, you and your crackhead jungle-bird ilk. I've seen pictures. And if I see you, you'll wish I hadn't.

On the Cape

I have arrived in Cape Tribulation, north of Cairns, at the place where I'm staying. Which is a tent cabin... right in the middle of a rainforest. Sitting out on the front porch of my cabin, I can see nothing but green, and hear nothing but birds... it's fantastic. I am going to try to go on a night tour of the rainforest tonight (apparently most of the animals are nocturnal), and then out on the reef tomorrow for some snorkeling.

How many cent?

I have heard the song so many times now..... but other than the fact that it is Shorty's birthday, I have no idea what happens In Da Club.

It's football, only different

In American football, they have helmets to protect their heads.

In Australian football, they have hair to protect their heads (sometimes).

In American football, you can either run the ball or pass it.

In Australian football, you can dribble it, pop it out of your hand with your fist, or kick it.

We have goalposts.

They have goalposts. Three different sets of them.

Our field is rectangular.

Their's is an oval.

But, despite all the differences, they still sell peanuts, and they sell beer, and you can sit in the sun and watch and listen to the crowd roar. And that's fun, no matter where you are.

Oh, and they wear scarves with their team name on them here. I can't say I'm a fan of that.

Bright Lights, New City

Well, I will finally be leaving Sydney tonight, on a flight to the warmer climes of Cairns. Sydney's been really cool, but I think I'm ready to be out of the big city -- and off to the Great Barrier Reef!

Over the last several days, I checked out some local beach towns (Bondi and Manly), and went on a tour of the Blue Mountains (beautiful -- not really moutains, though; more of a vast plateau really, carved up like a canyon). I also checked out a local wildlife park, which inspired the post below. I got to pet koalas, wallabies, shingleback lizards, and yes, even kangaroos. It was really cool... all of the animals were just walking around amongst the people in the park. Kookaburras, Peacocks, Black Swans... even wombats. I like wombats. The one I saw looked like a nimble pig and was pacing back and forth in his pen; ostensibly either in worry or in an elaborate, formal defensive routine. Who knows...I may have just missed the Changing of the Wombat Guard.

Another highlight: Being out in the Sydney Harbour at night, coming in to Sydney on the ferry from Manly. Panoramically aglow, this city is even more beautiful when the sun goes down. When I got to the dock, I just walked around it for a while, listening to the buskers play, and took in all of the twinkling lights of this town.